Followers of this humble blog will be rewarded for their patience--here are a bazillion pictures of our recent (business and pleasure, but mostly the later) trip to Vienna and Trieste....here's St. Stephen's, with Dan and Orion.
Vienna was almost everything I'd imagined it to be, though it turned out to be another pleasant, mid-sized European city comparable to others I've seen. Had we arrived pre-Lent, it might have even matched my expectations, which included waltzing at evening balls and opera-length gloves. Nevertheless, Vienna does some of my favorite things extremely well: Cafes, Concert-halls, and Crystal Chandeliers. Not to mention Chocolate, to keep the alliteration semi-alive, or Baroque Palaces, to kill it entirely. The Schonnbrun Palace even includes among its pleasure-gardens a Baroque Zoo, ostensibly the first zoo ever, which we enjoyed so much we returned, to bookend our stay in Vienna between seeing Koala and Polar bears. If this sounds snuggly, it was indeed a comfortable trip, and we loved our hotel, Pension Pertschy, with a long bathtub, feather beds and multiple pillows, to the obligatory three-tiered crystal chandelier. Here's Orion watching the planes in preparation for departure (not on Lufthansa).
And if the picture of Schonbrunn palace is wonky, that's because we went almost as soon as we landed, pushing ourselves in the cold and wind to stay awake until local bedtime.
Orion enjoying the ducks at one of the palace garden fountains. It was a bit wintry--it will be lovely once the flowers bloom (note: don't come during Lent.)
A rare picture including all of us, outside the lovely magnificent greenhouse (Palmenhaus) also on the palace grounds, near the Tiergarten entrance. (Reminded me of those in London, though they were giving out tropical fruit salad to all visitors that day--so we incongruously but happily experienced eating bananas, pineapple and papaya in a steamy hot jungle on palace grounds in Vienna.)
Orion, using his newly accomplised pointing action to admire tree azaleas in bloom.
My still-smiling boys (miracolo dei miracoli) at the end of our first very long day in Vienna.
But this is not really a diary of the trip. A few more wonders: the Library in the court, complete with bookcase doors and ladders on wheels, as well as ceiling frescos and ancient globes as tall as yours truly.
The Schmetterlinghaus, in a Palmenhaus (which I could see from the Studiensaal in the Albertina, where I was looking at stunning Durer drawings); upon entry into another jungle clime, one feasts the eyes on splendid butterflies as they feast on nectar-dipped silk orchids, and dip over trees and under built waterfalls.
The operahouse interior, where I had furchtbar seats, but the minimalist ice-cube set of Eugene Onegin wasn't much to my taste, so it was OK that I couldn't see the stage from my seat.
The Oper knows how to make a grand entrance--the wondrous foyer:
The chocolatier Demel's display; here I enjoyed the richest hot chocolate I will probably ever have. I bought small chocolate easter-bunnies here (don't tell Orion!) but wish I could have filled a large basket.
The Hof gate, near the Spanish Riding school, which we didn't see. Lovely baroque stable for the white horses though.
The Pestsaule and the trucks that Orion enjoyed watching as they repaved the street on the Graben, which was near our hotel. He also really loved the many dogs on leashes, shouting DAda! Dada! and pointing enthusiastically.
I went to a concert in the Musikverein, a performance by a small chamber orchestra, in the Brahms saal, which unbelievably was one of the less elaborate rooms in the building. See what I mean about the chandeliers?
A stolen photo of the grand saal of the Musikverein.
The cafe culture in Vienna was wonderful; everyone welcomed the baby, though they often tried to give him china plates or cups, which we had to decline; he was happiest when in a booth or bench seat with us, though most places had Kinderstuhls.
A tickle-session before a wurst.
The Belvedere palace, next to which I am very small.
Hence the name.
The grand staircase, which called out for a dress with a long train.
(Orion liked the radiators)
Nevertheless, we did get some waltzing in.
Another major hit for babies: the many horsedrawn carriages. He quickly said "horse," most accurately.
The columns and grand ceiling of a cathedral of cafes, Cafe Central.
A hat-shop display, making me think of "Caps for Sale"--look how many colors they have of berets alone!!
Though if I had money to burn, I'd look for antiques in Vienna. Wow. I was looking for a gold-framed mirror recently, without success--if only I could get one here! We took advantage and tried to frame ourselves in a photo.
I'll have to post later about the superlative Zoo--here's a Giant Anteater as teaser. (It's bigger than me! Really!)
I think of the elephant as somewhat neo-classical.
This cheetah was looking for a snack, and prowling quite close to us. I think he was eyeing a certain cute, plump 14-month-old.
Another example of fashionable camouflage adaptation (and the baroque cafe in the middle of the zoo. Yes, elegant cafes were everywhere! It was wonderful!):
A not-wary cassowary and his observers:
The humans could wander through the birds' space--a Viennese Mädchen for scale:
Aminals!!
AND, after the zoo and a jaunt through the woods we wandered up to the Gloriette, a magnificent Empress Marie-Therese hangout and delicate baroque structure at the top of the hill overlooking the Schloss. I hear you ask, was there a cafe in there as well? Mais oui, perche no, aber ja! And I had a quite lovely Schwarzenwald torte there, to relive my Berlin example, after a large lunch.
Here is the Empress-worthy view (of her own cherished domain):
