View from the Rialto, my first day in Venice in April.
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Dan and I always take our picture together by the Tetrarchs when we're in Venice together....although I was by myself, I thought I'd keep up the tradition. (None of these pictures are very good--I only had my phone camera with me. But many more before me have given Venice her due in photographs, so I show here only a minimum of my trip.)
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Even more than the few months I spent in Venice, living on the Giudecca, I tried to live like a local, shopping at the Rialto (above; I forgot to take a picture of the fruit stands and my fish and cheese stand pictures are even worse), commuting via traghetto, or a gondola shuttle across Canal Grande (below; one stands during the ride), patronizing gelaterie and pasticcerie, and visiting friends.
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I just can't get enough of Venetian Renaissance facades of colored marble, as in S Maria dei Miracoli (below) and the Scuola San Marco, still a working hospital.
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Venetian Gothic, too, is lovely, as in Tintoretto's parish church, S Maria dell'Orto (below) and Ss. Zanipolo, just to the right above (where the Bellini family was buried).
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He's buried in the church; here's his memorial. I saw plenty of wonderful Tintoretto paintings and Bellini paintings and scuplture and prints and drawings and altarpieces; that's why I was there, and why I love my job.
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I also visited San Michele, the island cemetery. I'd wanted to go for a decade, but never had the chance. It is really beautiful, an extended garden, with graves of veneziani and a few famous people. I said hello to Stravinsky and Diaghilev.
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A few more pictures, from Ca d'Oro, with its funny collection but the last Mantegna; the university, where I spoke for a conference (the Renaissance Society of America), my primary reason for the journey; my apartment was just behind Goldoni's house; this apt gave me access to a Grand Canal door and view; watching the boats from my slippery little platform eating a gelato was a pretty amazing experience.
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And finally, a hint for you, dear reader, on what else preoccupied yours truly in Venice. (And no, it is not that Italians spend a fortune on their kids' clothes, although that is true.)
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(For another hint, see my trench in the photo above, and for the last hint, see my posts for the last time I was in Venice, Sept. 2007.) Any guesses?